Gareth Pugh

Gareth Pugh is an English fashion designer who was born in 1981. He also attended Saint Martins, and graduated in 2003, and later went on to develop a name for him self within the fashion industry. It is said that his final collections for his Saint Martins exhibition is what became his trade mark look, and gave him a name for him self as well as gaining the attention of the press and getting the front cover of magazines. This opened even more doors for him and gave him the opportunity to work on group shows such as London Alternative Fashion Week. His first ever big show was at London Fashion week in 2006, and since he has gone on to display work collections all over. Vogue calls his work incredible "His genius is undeniable." Gareth Pugh describes his work as being about a struggle between lightness and darkness. A lot of his work includes black and white patch work and experimentation with volume. Most of his work is recognised as perfomance art and very dark, almost gothic like.

John Galliano

John Galliano was born in 1960, he is currently the head designer at Christian Dior, he attended Saint Martins collage in 1984 and graduated with an honours degree. One of his first ever collections and most memerable one to date was inspired by the French Revolution, entitled Les Incroyables, it received great reviews and was bought and sold in fashion boutiques in London. In his later career he went on to work alongside Alexandra McQueen, and various other big names. In 1980 Galliano relocated to Paris, where he took part in Fashion week. From then on his work continued to receive great reviews. His collection for Paris fashion week went on to open many doors for him, and is most definitely recognised as a fashion moment in high fashion.

Marc Jacobs

Marc Jacobs is an American Designer who was born in 1963. He is a very influential designer with a flair for drawing attention and seems to point buyers and audiences towards trends to come.

Jacobs, like Donna Karen studied at Parson's and is is currently Creative Director of French Fashion House Louis Vuitton.

He launched his Fashion line alongside current business partner Robert Duffy, in 1986 with the backing of a Japanese Company.

In 1989 he was appointed Creative Director of Perry Ellis - but was notoriously fired after presenting his 'Grunge Collection'.

He then went on to accept the position of Creative Director at LV in 1997.

His Spring 2011 collection featured an electric orange print on a Eastern - inflected coat with belled sleeves and an obilike belt. The collection also featured more prints on silk, followed by halter dresses and strapless jumpsuits slit high enough on the thigh to reveal the model's briefs. The 70's influence is definitely felt in this collection.

Donna Karen

Donna Karen attended Parson's School of design and began her career as assistant designer in the 1960's to Anne Klein.

She was then promoted to Associate Designer in 71 and subsequently Head Designer when Anne Klein died.

In 1984, Karen started her own line of fashion to 'create modern clothes for modern people'.

She showed her first women's clothing collection in 1985.

She quickly became known for her 'essentials' line that initially offered seven easy pieces which could be mixed and matched.

Donna Karen always insisted that she would only design clothes that she would wear herself.

She also runs the DKNY fashion line, which is a range designed for younger women.

In 1977 she quit as Head Designer of the company but still acts as the Chairwomen.

Pierre Cardin

Pierre Cardin in an Italian born French Fashion Designer who is mainly known for his Avant Garde style and space - age designs.

He prefers geometric shapes and motifs, often ignoring the female form.

One of his most famous pieces is the Bubble Dress which he designed in 1954.

Cardin also studied architecture with Jean Paquin, which i feel comes through in his designs. As well as this he has also worked with Elsa Scheparelli until he became head of Christian Dior's atelier in 1947, but was denied work at Balenciaga.

He founded his own Fashion House in 1950 and his career was launched when he designed about 30 pieces for the Masquerade Ball in Venice in 1951.

The designer began with Haute Couture in 1953.

Jil Sander

Since 1973 Jil Sander has worked as a Fashion Editor and Freelance Designer in Germany.

She is synonymous with Minimalism and mastered the basics then enlivened them with intriguing

cuts or experimental fabrics.

In 1943, she opened her first store in Hamburg and sold her own designs.

The designer has a reputation for being a perfectionist (ever dictating where a sales person should

stand in a boutique) which you could say is what drove her to success.

In 2000, she sold her label to Prada in hopes of expanding her shoe and accessory business.

However, they clashed and Sander left after 4 Months. She then returned to the runway in 2003

under Prada's watch, until 3 seasons later she departed again.

In 2005 Belgian Designer Raf Simons was appointed Creative Director of the brand and a year later

Prada sold to a private company followed by Jil Sander Accessories finally being launched a year

after that.

The designs that come from the Fashion House are statement makers - mesmerizing in terms of line and proportion

they reflect understated elegance.

Henry Holland

After graduating from The London College of Printing with a BA in journalism, Henry Holland was catapulted into the fashion limelight in 2006 with irreverent ‘Fashion Gorupies’ slogan tees featuring catchphrases such as “UHU Gareth Pugh” and “Get Your Freak On Giles Deacon”.

In Feburary 2008, after 2 seasons showing with Fashion East, House of Holland held its first solo show on the main Fashion Week schedule to critical acclaim with the brand consequently winning the ‘Best Use of Tartan Award’ at the Scottish Fashion Awards.

Henry designs with a Londongirl aesthetic in mind and is continually inspired by the variety of attitudes, cultures and mindsets that exist throughout the UK capital. The House of Holland girl is cool, confident and savvy and wears labels without letting them wear her.

Firmly established in the international fashion scene, house of Holland now boasts an impressive roster of international premium stockists including Browns Focus, Selfridges, Harvey Nichols, Colette, Opening Ceremony and Barneys.

Isabel Toledo

Isabel Toledo was born in Cuba and moved to New Jersey where she attended high school and met her future husband and collaborator, Ruben Toledo. She attended the Fashion Institute of Technology (NY) and Parsons School of Design (NY) where she studied painting, ceramics, and fashion design. An avid seamstress from a young age, Toledo's work reflects not only a distinct design sense but a keen understanding of garment construction and appreciation for the geometric intricacies of pattern shapes.

In 1985, Toledo presented her first collection. In 1998, she stopped presenting biannual collections, instead choosing to create on her own schedule. Toledo was named creative director of Anne Klein in 2006 after more than twenty years of working solely under her own name. Toledo made her debut with Anne Klein at New York Fashion Week in February 2007. Toledo and Anne Klein parted ways later in 2007.

Toledo designed a lemongrass yellow wool lace shift dress with matching overcoat which First Lady Michelle Obama selected to wear at the inauguration of her husband, President Barack Obama. Michelle Obama first wore a Toledo design on Wednesday, June 18, 2008 for an appearance at a New York City fashion world fund-raiser.

Aitor Throup

Aitor Throup was born in Buenos Aires, Argentina in 1980. He has also lived in Spain and moved to Burnley in England in 1992. It was in Burnley that Throup developed a passion for labels such as Stone Island and C.P. Company. It was a mixture of Aitor’s interest in these products and his own passion for drawing that led him to begin a BA in Fashion Design at Manchester Metropolitan University, from where he graduated with first class honours in 2004. In 2006, he completed an MA Postgraduate Degree in Fashion Menswear at the Royal College of Art in London.

Aitor is fascinated with anatomy and his main interest is drawing. His hand drawn characters become the primary tool in the exploration of his ‘justified design philosophy’, which highlights the necessity of a reason or function behind all design features. Aitor’s design process is centred around innovative methods of design and construction, in particular a construction process which utilises his own sculptures of the human body as a system for blocking garments.

Versace

Versace is an Italian fashion label founded by Gianni Versace in 1978. The first Versace boutique was opened in Milan's Via della Spiga in 1978. Versace designs, markets and distributes luxury clothing, accessories, fragrances, makeup and home furnishings under the various brands of the Versace Group.

Gianni Versace was killed by Andrew Cunanan on July 15, 1997. His sister Donatella Versace, formerly vice-president, then stepped in as creative director of Versace and his older brother Santo Versace became CEO. Donatella's daughter Allegra Versace also owns 50 percent of the company since 2004 as wished by Gianni in his last will. Allegra also has the last say of the sale and other important details in the Versace clothing line.

There are several lines which make up Versace: Versace Couture, Versace Jeans Couture, Versace Home Collection, Versus, and Versace Collection. In addition to clothing and accessories, it also operates a hotel, the Palazzo Versace.

Hussein Chalayan

Hussein Chalayan (given name Hüseyin Çağlayan) (born 1970) is a British/Turkish Cypriot fashion designer who graduated from Central Saint Martins in 1993. He is renowned for his innovative use of materials, meticulous pattern cutting and progressive attitude to new technology.

In the fall of 1998, while still designing his signature line, he was appointed as a design consultant for New York knitwear label TSE. His collaboration with them lasted till 2001 when the company decided not to renew his contract.

Chalayan has always struggled with sponsorship and funding, often receiving it from various other companies and his own country

In early 2008, he designed a series of laser LED dresses and later, Chalayan was appointed as the creative director for German sportswear label Puma.

Rick Owens

Rick Owens is an American fashion designer hailing from California, celebrated for his avant garde and subversive eye. He started his LA-based eponymous line in 1994 but it was in 2002, when he won the CFDA's New Talent award and moved to Paris, that the label well and truly exploded onto the fashion scene.

Perennial favourites include luxe leather jackets, sumptuous knits and draped dresses in a muted palette of black, white and gray.

His look has been described as "glamour-meets-grunge", but Owens himself says "I try to make clothes the way Lou Reed does music, with minimal chord changes, and direct. It is sweet but kind of creepy. It's about giving everything I make a worn, softened feeling. It's about an elegance being tinged with a bit of the barbaric, the sloppiness of something dragging and the luxury of not caring. At Revillon, I felt it isn't about displaying one's junk, but rather giving the woman a selfish pleasure. It is about using sable as the lining under a very humble jacket, the luxury is all hers."

Nicolas Ghesquière

Nicolas Ghesquière (born 1971 in Comines, Nord) is a globally recognized fashion designer and is currently creative director for the house of Balenciaga owned by the Gucci Group. He grew up in Loudun, Vienne.

Nicolas worked from 1990-1992 as an assistant to designer Jean-Paul Gaultier. He then worked at Pôles, designing their knit wear line followed by a series of inauspicious assignments with different companies including the Italian house of Callaghan.

Through his contacts with Marie-Amélie Sauve and Nathalie Marrec, of Balenciaga, Ghesquière eventually landed a job doing the licensing for Balenciaga (the unglamorous, mass-production side of fashion) and designing for the Asian market.

In 1997, at the young age of 25, Ghesquière was the surprise choice to head Balenciaga.

His pencil-thin pants are particularly popular, many girls say he cuts the sexiest trousers for women. Ultimate proof of success, they're now widely copied everywhere, have become a fashion paradigm.

Comme des Garçons

Comme des Garçons was started in Tokyo by Rei Kawakubo in 1969 and was established as a company in Japan in 1973. Comme des Garçons became successful in Japan in the 1970s; a men's line was added in 1978 and the year 1981 saw Comme des Garçons's debut show in Paris. It created a splash for its predominant use of black and distressed fabrics. Throughout the 1980s, Comme des Garçons's clothes often had the destroyed look.

Junya Watanabe and, as of recently, Tao Kurihara have started their own sub-labels under the Comme des Garçons name to much acclaim. Both were also involved in designing for the casual women's knitwear line 'Comme des Garçons Tricot'.

Comme des Garçons collections are designed in the Comme des Garçons studio in Aoyama, Tokyo and are made in Japan, France, Spain and Turkey.

Erdem Moriaglu

Erdem is a Canadian designer who studied at the Royal College of Art and worked for a designer in New York before setting up his own label which was established in 2005.

The signature of the brands aesthetic are graceful, modern pieces that fuse sharp, forward tailoring with graphic custom designed silk prints in a uniquely romantic approach.

Erdem reiterates how women can dress beautifully, by striving to create personal and special products. His designs have a whimsical form and use quality fabrics and bold colour with a playful use of embellishment and embroidery.

Halston

RTW Spring 2001

Roy Halston Frowick was born on April 23, 1932 in Des Moines. Halston developed an interest in sewing from his mother, and he began creating hats and altering clothes for his mother and sister as a child. Roy graduated from Bosse High School in Evansville, Indiana in 1950. In 1952, Halston moved to Chicago, where he enrolled in a night course at the School of the Art Institute of Chicago. Whilst studying he also worked as a window dresser, all at the age of 18.

Roy Halston Frowick launched his womenswear label in 1968. The label is noted for its luxurious but minimalist, modern designs, like heavyweight cashmere evening dresses, ultra suede wrap coats and simple jersey sarongs. Halston expanded to include menswear and perfume in 1975.His designs were classically simple, elegant, and chic.

Veronique Branquinho

RTW Fall 2009

Branquinho was born in 1973 in Antwerp, Belgium. She studied fashion design at the Flanders Fashion Institute in Antwerp. Her focus is on making clothes that allow women to enjoy femininity without compromising dignity. She has always been known for effortless understated chic. She is famous for her attention to detail and use of fabrics, and the label is known for its immaculate construction, rich fabrics and attention to detail.

Johnathan Saunders

RTW Spring 2009

Jonathan Saunders studied at Glasgow School of Art and then went on to Central Saint Martin’s, graduating with an MA in Printed Textiles in 2002. Best known for his work with prints, Saunders has built a trademark in the use of his silk screen techniques, developing the concept of engineering prints around pattern pieces, whilst the print is still integral to his designs. Each piece in his collections has a specifically designed print to work with the shape rather than vice-versa.

In addition to designing for his own label, Saunders is creative director of Milan-based fashion house Pollini and has designed ranges for retail chains Target and Topshop.

Anna Sui

Anna Sui RTW/S2010

Anna Sui was born August 4 1964, she is an American fashion designer and her brand retails globally in the America, Europe, Asia and the Middle East. Her clothing, fragrance, cosmetic, and accessories lines sell through her stores in over 50 countries and are also widely available in leading department stores worldwide. International Fashion Designer Anna Sui's involvement in fashion began at an early age, with a devotion to dressing her dolls and her neighbour’s toy soldiers for her own personal version of the Academy Awards. Sui eventually extended her fashion interest to include designing her own clothes and clipping fashion magazine pages to serve as inspirations. To this very day, she continues to refer to these "genius files".

Anna Sui is known for her vivid, colourful and cheerful designs and in 1991, Anna Sui premiered her first runway show, featuring her signature "head-to-toe" look. Anna Sui is known as a designer that "never panders" by The New York Times, she continues to design and manufacture her signature Anna Sui Collection in her New York City headquarters. Her runway shows continue to set trends and inspire designers everywhere. Sui's signature wit and original designs draw legions of devotees to her pieces, including clients Patricia Arquette, Christina Ricci, Cher, Naomi Campbell, Sofia Coppola, Courtney Love of Hole and James Iha of Smashing Pumpkins.

Issey Miyake

RTW Spring 2011

Issey Miyake was born 22 April 1938 in Hiroshima, Japan. He studied graphic design at the Tama Art University in Tokyo, graduating in 1964. After graduation, he worked in Paris and New York City. Returning to Tokyo in 1970, he found the Miyake Design Studio.

In the late '80s, he began to experiment with new methods of pleating that would allow both flexibility of movement for the wearer as well as ease of care and production. This became Issey Miyake's trademark.

Pleats Please collections were first launched in 1993. Made from single pieces of high quality 100% polyester fabric, the innovation behind Pleats Please are that the clothes are first cut and sewn together two-and-a-half to three times larger than the finished garments. Individual pieces are hand fed into a heat press sandwiched between two sheets of paper. The garment then emerges with permanent pleats. This industrial process allows both texture and form to be created at the same time. Vertical, horizontal and zig-zag pleating is used to create varying effects and architectural shapes. Pleats Please clothes are very functional and practical; the garments store easily, travel well, require no ironing and can be machine-washed and dried within minutes. Shapes are simple, colours diverse. A set of standard colours is available each season, to which are added seasonal colours and prints.The Spring/Summer 2001 collection celebrates the world of natural light and shadow and includes the following ranges: Stitch Denim, Flower Garden, Stripe Montage and Side Wave.

Miyake's basic tenets for making clothes has always been the idea of creating a garment from 'one piece of cloth', and the exploration of the space between the human body and the cloth that covers it. His approach to design has always been to strike a consistent balance between tradition and innovation, handcrafts and new technology.

Mary Katrantzou

RTW Spring Summer 2011

Mary Katrantzou attended Rhode Island School of Design and then completed both her BA and MA at Central Saint Martins. She has previously worked for Sophia Kokosalaki and freelanced for Bill Blass, amongst other designers.

Mary Katrantzou recognised her design signatures to be ‘a hyperrealist aesthetic, bold graphics and industrial jewellery’. Mary’s collections consist of bold detailed prints, layered textures, shape and structure, abstract 3D, minimalist designs, clashing colours and prints. Her trademark piece was seen to be her ‘lampshade skirt’, in this years spring/summer 2011 collection. (Above)

Vivienne Westwood

RTW Fall 2010

Vivienne Westwood born 1941 Derbyshire, moved to London ages 17 and studied at the Harrow School of Art, taking fashion and silversmithing. Westwood lived a pretty normal life married, with children and had a career in teaching. However this all changed when she met Malcolm McLaren.

McLaren decided to open a boutique at 430 King's Road called "Let It Rock" (later known variously as "Sex", "Too Fast To Live Too Young To Die", and "Seditionaries"). Westwood created clothes which McLaren conceived, drawing inspiration from bikers, fetishists and prostitutes. Westwood was deeply interested by the punk fashion phenomenon of the 1970s, and was known as the ‘mother of punk’, which made the subculture succeed even more.

Vivienne Westwood’s first catwalk show was presented in 1981, featuring the collaboration of both her and McLaren’s ideas and designs. Her trademark is definitely recognised as punk.

Westwood now has become known as one of the most influential British fashion designers of the 20^th century.

Richard Nicoll

Richard Nicoll, born in London but then was raised in Australia, graduated at Central Saint Martins in 2002 where, by his surprise, Dolce and Gabbana brought his entire collection. Since then he has experienced a meteoric rise to international fashion fame and has achieved many awards along the way. His trademark pieces are silk T-shirt dresses, geometric cut, oversized garments which means one size fits all and you don’t have to worry about gaining a few pounds here and there. The images in the collage above are of his S/S2011 collection, this really stood out for me. It featured sexy transparencies and high waisted, ultra glam sportswear. Each individual piece works nicely alone yet looks just as beautiful as a collection. There is a mixture of structured garments but in contrast there are much fluid and softer garments and with the transparent fabric it looks feminine and elegant.

Kenzo

Takada Kenzō, born 27 February 1939 in Himeji, Japan, is a Japanese fashion designer. He is the start of kenzo, a brand known worldwide not just for his floral clothing but for perfume and skincare products. Kenzo always had a passion for fashion, this happened as he was surrounded by his sisters who left fashion magazines lying around so he was constantly reminded and inspired. He then attended a fashion school in 1958, after getting his diploma he moved to Paris to start his career. Kenzo hit success in 1970 during this year he presented his first show to the Vivienne Gallery and his store “Jungle Jap” was opened. His career then went from strength to strength, his men’s line came out in 1983 followed by his perfume line launching in 1988. The brand Kenzo is now owned by a French luxury goods company.

Paco Rabanne

Francisco "Paco" Rabaneda Cuervo, or as we famously know him as Paco Rabanne, is a Franco-Spanish fashion designer born on the 18th February 1934. He started out being very interested in architecture, this explains the different textured materials used in his designs. Materials used in his first collection were, cardboard, metal and rhodoid, his interest in architecture greatly influenced his designs. His career started by making jewelry for Givenchy, Dior and Balenciaga, until he had the break and opened his own fashion house in 1966. Paco Rabanne is famous for his costume designs and his ever changing fragrances for both men and women.

Louise Gray

Louise Gray is well known for her quirky, brightly coloured textile based fashion. She started studding in Scotland then moved to London to do her MA at Central Saint Martins where she graduated and got snapped up by Fashion East for whom she worked with for three seasons. Recently shown at London Fashion week, the audience sat waiting, knowing full well a treat was in store as the catwalk was covered in multicoloured polka dots, this theme continued on the models faces. Her fun bold style is defiantly an out there fashion fix for youths. Her A/W 2011 collection featured her trademark patchwork style, made up of prints, patterns and textures overlapped to crate voluminous silhouettes. By arranging a funfair of bizarre balloon arrangements attached to each of the models heads and oversized gold whistle earrings Gray made a statement and was remember able and already I can’t wait to see what her next collection has in store.

Jean Muir

Muir was English and was known as the world’s greatest “dressmaker” that was one of the finest at the time, won achievements such as “dress of the year” not just once but three times. Born in 1928 and sadly passed away in 1995 she began her career in Liberties and Co in the stockroom and gradually worked her way up to a shop assistant, which meant she could be at one with the clothing and so she began sketching and became involved in Liberties Fashion Show. She then moved on to work in Jaeger, at this point she was approached by David Barnes a mass-market jersey dress manufacture who recognised her exceptional talent and offered to fund her own label and so it became Jane and Jane in 1962. Having the connection with Liberties she often features a lot of their textiles in her designs. Although at this period a lot of subculture was emerging, Jane Muir designed for women with a mature look and chose not to follow any trends; her dresses were radical but classic.

B Boys

This generation is yet another subculture that has been influenced by dance. This era stemmed from the hip hop culture of the 1970's, the term B. Boy refers to a group of people who enjoy break-dancing. This particular group of people often sport sports wear such as Adidas Original tracksuits, good dancing trainers, knee protectors, woolly hat or base balls caps. This particular style of dance evolved amongst the black and Latino Americans community in the Bronx and went on to dominate the dance community in other parts of America .

Goth

The Goth generation began in the late 1980's, this subculture was hugely influenced by aesthetics such as heavily worn dark make up and powdered white skin, finishing the look off by wearing dark clothing.To add to this dark Gothic look they were often covered in piercings and tattoo's. Many recognised this subculture to be somewhat enforced by dark Dracula gore type movies, they were compared to the 19th century romanticism era. Dark music with a lot passion was the kind listened to by this particular subculture, for example Southern Death Cult, Lamb of the God and The Cure.

Club Kids

The Club Kids were a group of young New York City club personalities mostly led by Michael Alig and James St. James in the late 1980s and early 1990s. The group were eccentric, wildly flamboyant and were notable for their elaborate and outrageous costumes and rampant drug use of ecstasy, ketamine, cocaine and heroin. Due to there outrageous, over the top, often risqué outfits the club kids club scene was hugely popular among drag queens and transgendered individuals. The Club Kids gained international notoriety, and influenced party scenes around the world. Club Kid-themed parties still take place in various night clubs to this day.

Punk

The punk subculture emerged in the United Kingdom, the United States, and Australia in the mid-1970s. Exactly which region originated punk has long been a major controversy within the movement. Punks seek to outrage others with the highly theatrical use of clothing, hairstyles, cosmetics, tattoos, jewellery and body modification. Early punk fashion adapted everyday objects for aesthetic effect . Ripped clothing was held together by safety pins or wrapped with tape, ordinary clothing was customized by embellishing it with marker or adorning it with paint. A black bin liner became a dress, shirt or skirt, safety pins and razor blades were used as jewellery.

Neo-Victorian

Neo-Victorian is an aesthetic movement which combines Victorian and Edwardian aesthetic sensibilities with modern principles and technologies. Steampunk is also seen as grouped under this category which came into prominence in the 1980s and early 1990s. Steampunk is a sub-genre of science-fiction, alternate history and speculative fiction that involves an era or world where steampower is still widely used.

Many who have adopted Neo-Victorian/Steampunk styles have also adopted Victorian behavioural affectations such as pronunciation and Victorian conduct. These styles and cultures can be seen in poular 21st century films such as Lemony Snicket's A Series Of Unfortunate Events and Sweeney Todd.

Skinheads

Skinheads started with working class youths in the uk, in the 1960's. They were greatly influenced by the fashion, music and lifestyles of the West Indians, Rude Boys and British Mods. Skinheads have always been one to have strong opinons on race and politics which often caused a clash with Hippies. Although a skinhead-usually dressed in a checked shirt, braces and levis or lee jeans and Dr Marten boots, is a subculture itself there are a few different types, Trojan Skinheads which adopt the original style from the 1960's, Oi! skinheads influenced by the 1970's punk subculture- often have more tattoos or shorter hair, or there is the Hardcore Skinheads that originated in the United States in the 1980's taken from the hardcore punks.

Burlesque

Burlesque is about glamour, performance, vintage and Dita Von Teese! Dita Von Teese who is frequently labeled "The Queen of Burlesque" often wore a corset meaning that her natural waistline of 22 inches could be laced down to a tiny 16.5 inches! In the 18th century the word Burlesque was used to describe musical work although now we assiociate it with dances being provocative and strippers. However it all started in the 1840's through to the 1960's which saw a rich souce in music and comedy which entertained the American and Great Britain audience. The performances would be watched by the lower and middle classes which would involve quick-whitted humour laced with puns and opera music often mock the upper class. Berlesque could also come under Fetishists as a Subculture but i found it really interesting, therfore could be a subculture by itself!!